What Do Skincare Products Like Essence and Serum Do Exactly?
Photo by SkinTour
Oil cleanser, essence, toner, exfoliant, humectant, and moisturizer...these are just a few of the skincare products we hear about, but I’ve come to realize, not everyone knows what each of them do and where they’re supposed to go in a skincare routine. That’s why I decided to create this quick reference guide of some of the most common skincare products to help you figure out which ones you need, which you can skip, and which you might want to consider for fun (because beauty is supposed to be effective AND fun).
For this post, I partnered with Walmart on their “Here for Every Beauty” campaign because they have such a wide variety of products that work for all skin types and needs. Plus, you might not know it, but you can get a ton of high-end brands in-store and online, along with some of your affordable favorites. Some of the products can even be shipped in a day!
Oil or Balm Cleanser
You’ve heard me talk about oil and balm cleansers at length in my Skincare Reaction Videos, but for those that aren’t sure, the main component is usually a lightweight oil or emollient that can breakdown makeup, oil, and grime from the day. These cleansers are not meant to be your only cleanse, but instead, your first cleanse. You gently apply them to your skin, massage until the oil has completely melted down, then add a little water to emulsify (it usually turns milky). Rinse it off, then move to your next cleanse to get all of it off.
Do you need it in your routine?
I emphatically say yes, even if you don’t wear makeup. It can help breakdown sunscreen, which everyone should wear daily.
Some oil and balm cleansers I recommend are:
Missha Cleansing Oil ($16)
Dermalogica Precleanse Balm ($15)
Foam Cleanser
Oh, the dreaded foam cleanser. Just a decade ago, I would have told you to never use one on your skin because it likely contained harsh ingredients to create that sudsy, foam texture that so many people associate with a deep cleanse. The main ingredient to look out for is sodium lauryl sulfate, a surfactant and detergent that can cause irritation or dry your skin out. That said, so many foam cleansers have replaced the harsh ingredients with gentle ones that can be used by most skin types.
Do you need it in your routine?
If you have oily or acneic skin, then you can benefit from it. Though some of the newer foam ingredients can be great for all skin types too.
Some foam cleansers I recommend are:
Simple Foaming Face Cleanser ($12)
EltaMD Foaming Face Cleanser ($22)
Gel Cleanser
Just as the name suggests, gel cleansers tend to have a thick, gel consistency that delivers a mild, yet efficient, cleanse without a lot of suds. I tend to find these types of cleansers work well for most skin types because they remove impurities without stripping the skin. But they still have to be formulated correctly.
Do you need it in your routine?
I’m partial to gel cleanser for the second cleanse in the evening and think it’s great for those that feel like they need a cleanser in the morning too.
Some gel cleansers I recommend are:
Philosophy Purity Made Simple ($18)
Biotherm Pure-Fect Cleanser ($18)
Exfoliant
In my experience, most people either over-exfoliate their skin or don’t exfoliate enough. What is an exfoliant exactly? It’s a product that removes dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. It can be a chemical exfoliant, a physical scrub (though that’s not usually my first choice), or some type of tool that has a granular texture to it.
The reason you want to use an exfoliant is to reveal fresh new skin. Not convinced? Keep in mind, your skin cell turnover slows down with age (just like everything else), which tends to make your skin look dull and accentuates signs of aging like wrinkles and dark spots. Once you exfoliate, your skin will look and feel more glowy, and your skincare products will work better too.
Do you need it in your routine?
Absolutely. If you have sensitive skin, choose a gentle chemical exfoliant with fruit enzymes or lactic acid and use once a week to start. Others can use stronger formulas and use more often depending on your skin.
Some exfoliants I recommend are:
Earth to Skin Super Fruits Exfoliating Cleanser ($7)
Mario Badescu Glycolic Toner ($18)
Essence
Not to be confused with toners (though they can be similar), essence tends to be a humectant-based product that can be a liquid or have a light gel texture. You use essence after you cleanse or exfoliate to prep your skin for the next products you’ll use. The concept is that damp or hydrated skin helps active ingredients absorb better.
Do you need it in your routine?
Not necessarily. Though, I find people with dehydrated skin see a big benefit from the use of essence. I personally love to have an essence in my routine.
Some essences I recommend are:
Son & Park Beauty Water ($25)
Missha The First Treatment Essence ($32)
Serum
This happens to be one of the most important products in a skincare routine, in my humble opinion. Serums contain a higher concentration of active ingredients that absorb into your skin a little easier than in moisturizer form, and they usually have a light humectant or oil base. Serums can be formulated to help with a number of skin issues and you can use more than one in a routine as long as the ingredients don’t irritate your skin.
Do you need it in your routine?
Some will say no, but I like to get my actives in serum form and keep the rest of my skincare products fairly simple and gentle. That said, you can definitely get your actives in a moisturizer and that might be enough for you.
Some serums I recommend are:
Peter Thomas Roth Water Drench Serum ($36)
PCA Skin Pigment Gel ($38)
Perricone MD Vitamin C Ester Brightening Amine Face Lift ($58)
Moisturizer
I realize most people have tried or use a moisturizer, but they don’t always know their purpose is to seal in all the goodness that just went into a skincare routine. A common complaint I hear from people, especially during the winter, is that they can’t find a moisturizer to help their dry skin, which is likely dehydrated skin (there’s a difference!). The problem is moisturizers are not hydrators. Yes, a moisturizer can help hydrate, but it needs to be formulated with hydrating ingredients. Otherwise, its primary purpose is to seal it all in, so you might need to add a hydrator (preferably in serum form) into your routine.
Do you need it in your routine?
Most people do, especially if you have a skincare routine. The constant cleansing, exfoliating, and application of humectants (hydrators) means you need to seal in your moisture.
Some moisturizers I recommend are:
CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream ($14)
CosRX Snail Cream ($21)
Shop the products here:
If you’re still confused about these products listed or want to see how I use them, watch my morning skincare routine video or my nighttime skincare routine.
