Everything You Need To Know About Azelaic Acid
Every few years, a new “it” ingredient starts to gain buzz in the beauty community – even if it’s not new at all. This year, it’s all about azelaic acid, a powerhouse ingredient that does everything from soothing angry acne to fading stubborn dark spots. Dermatologists and skinthusiasts can’t stop raving about this super effective acid that is gentle enough to be used by everyone. If there was ever an ingredient that could do it all, azelaic acid is it.
To learn more about azelaic acid and what it can do for our skin, we turned to the pros – dermatology resident physician Dr. Muneeb Shah (aka Tik Tok’s favorite dermatologist) and London-based dermatology registrar Dr. Beibei Du-Harpur. Here’s every reason why you need to add azelaic acid to your skincare routine.
What is Azelaic Acid?
To put it simply, azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid derived from wheat, barley, or rye. There really isn’t a skin concern that azelaic acid can’t help fix. “It’s highly effective at treating acne, rosacea, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It also has mild exfoliating properties,” says Dr. Shah. And unlike other acids that can be harsh on the skin, azelaic acid is gentle enough to use on sensitive skin because of its high molecular weight and anti-inflammatory properties.
What percentage of azelaic acid should I be using?
There are both over-the-counter and prescription product options for azelaic acid. Dr. Du-Harpur says the most commonly prescribed products are Finacea Gel, which has 15 percent azelaic acid, and Skinoren Cream, which has 20 percent azelaic acid. Finacea Gel is best for treating mild acne and papulopustular rosacea, a subtype of rosacea where red spots appear on the cheeks. Skinoren Cream is often prescribed to treat acne vulgaris and hyperpigmentation. Typically, over-the-counter formulas contain 10 percent azelaic acid, which can still be effective at treating conditions such as mild acne, rosacea, and dark spots.
Can I Use Azelaic Acid While Pregnant or Breastfeeding?
Good news for those who are pregnant or breastfeeding: “Azelaic acid is one of the few anti-acne ingredients that’s safe to use while pregnant or breastfeeding,” says Dr. Shah. That said, always consult with your doctor before making any changes to your routine.
How To Use Azelaic Acid In Your Routine?
Whether you’re using an over-the-counter or prescription product, Dr. Du-Harpur recommends using it twice a day on a cleansed, dry face. Azelaic acid works well on its own but can also be paired with other soothing and brightening ingredients like niacinamide and vitamin C. However, Dr. Du-Harpur suggests staying consistent with use, rather than switching to retinol or other acne-fighting ingredients, to see the best results.
Product Recommendations
Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% ($20)
Fans of NATURIUM’s Azelaic Topical Acid 10% ($20) call it a “miracle in a bottle.” It gently exfoliates, helps reduce dark spots, and controls excess oil production without drying out the skin thanks to the azelaic acid derivative it contains. It’s formulated with powerhouse ingredients like niacinamide and vitamin C, and is perfect for those with sensitive, problematic skin. If you find that your skin can’t handle more aggressive acids like glycolic acid, try adding azelaic acid to your routine for gentle, but effective results.
Paula’s Choice Azelaic Acid Booster 10% ($36)
This lightweight gel is formulated with 10% azelaic acid, salicylic acid, and other brightening and soothing ingredients like licorice root extract. It can be used alone or added to your moisturizer or serum, day and night. The multi-tasking product reduces the look of blemishes, improves skin texture, fades dark spots, and evens out skin tone. The formula is gentle and perfect for those looking to add azelaic acid to their routine.
REN Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic ($38)
This product has been a favorite of Mixed Makeup founder Susan Yara for years. It brightens, exfoliates, and hydrates thanks to the combination of lactic acid, salicilin (from willowbark extract), and an azelaic acid precursor. (Psst…use our code “MixedMakeup” for 20 percent off at REN!)
TOPICALS Faded Brightening & Clearing Gel ($36)
True to its name, this azealic acid gel is perfect for anyone looking to fade stubborn dark spots, scars, and hyperpigmentation. In addition to brightening azealic acid, it uses niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and kojic acid to balance skin tone, improve skin texture, and revive dull skin. This stuff isn’t only great for your face, you can use it to fade hyperpigmentation on other parts of your body, like armpits, butt, or elbows too! However, it does have a strong sulfur smell, so if you’re not a fan you might want to skip this product.
Have you jumped on the azelaic acid bandwagon yet? What’s your favorite product? Comment below!
